DRESDEN PLATE FLOWERS - By Lorrie Ryther-Hall

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DRESDEN PLATE FLOWERS

 

First, I want to put a plug into finishing your UFOs/IQs. I shared the Dresden Plate center that I made in 2015. Well, I finished the quilt, yea. The feeling of finishing a quilt is great. We have heard the saying about “Finished is better than perfect.”  That is my motto. Here is a pic.

 


Second, I shared my favorite method of making circles. I was reminded of other methods when I was at the Crazy Quilters meeting in May when Kathryn Winterton taught Dresden Plates and mentioned another way of making center circles. Opps, I was remiss. I should have shared other techniques in making circles. To rectify that, here are other ways.



The first one is the one Kathryn taught. Use a template that is made from light weight cardboard (cereal box), perfect circle, and/or freezer paper. Make the circle using any object like a cup to make a circle the size you want. The fabric needs to be ¼” or larger than the circle. Freezer paper works great as you can iron down and it stays easily on the fabric. Take a piece of thread (old thread works well) and hand baste around the edge of the circle. Can also use a sewing machine with a large stitch, do not backstitch. Gather the thread around the circle and smooth out the edges. Press with an iron to make a crease. Remove the template and thread and add to your flower.


Another way to do a circle, is to take the template circle the size you want it, and cut fabric a ¼” large all the way around. Next, take a piece of foil that is larger; so you have foil, fabric and template. Fold foil into the template with the fabric making a circle. Smooth out the edges. Then press with an iron so sharp edges. Let cool and remove foil and template to reveal the circle with creased edges.

 

Here is another way, take the template circle and draw on a piece of double-sided fusible web. Iron on your fabric, cut out and fuse on the center of your flower. Leave as is or secure with stitches.

 

Everyone has their favorite method. Don’t forget, you can always use a large button or a yoyo for a center. Using interfacing, allows you to stuff the center if you want.  Add embroidery if desired. Have I forgotten a circle making technique?



California Poppy Flower

Need: Template A

One Fat Quarter (Bright Orange or Yellow)

Embroidery floss for center

Cut template and glue template onto freezer paper and cut two blades out of the paper

Press one template shiny side down on the fabric, and cut out.

Make 6 blades

 

Directions: Use Template A (60 degree) that is shown in previous Beelines.  Make a template using freezer paper by drawing the template on the freezer paper and cut out. You can also glue the paper template down on the freezer paper, and cut it out. This makes the template stronger. Make two freezer templates. You will need six blades. Use one fat quarter (orange or yellow). Press the freezer template onto the fabric and cut out two at a time; making six blades total. Can use the same fabric or different fabrics; your decision. Sew all six blades together and press.

 

To make a template. Using a compass or a plate, draw a circle on freezer paper. Cut out and fold into wedges. Add ¼” to wedge for seam allowance.

 

Spiky Poppy

To make a spiky poppy, use Template C (22.5 degree) and 3 ½” long. Make six blades using a 3 ½” strip of fabric. Use the flip and cut method. These blades will go between the six blades made from Template A. Fold these in half lengthwise and press. For these spikes, the narrow end goes at the top. Snip ½” off the bottom (tip) of the large blades which reduces bulk in the center. With the wide side down, take the open side towards the seam and fold in center between two large blades. Pin Double check to make sure that the open edges are in the seam with the folded side towards center (wide edge to center). Stitch using a 1.5 stitch length.  Sew from the top (backstitch)  towards the center. Open up and using a chopstitch or purple thing, open up the wedge. If adjustment is needed, sew a larger seam so it lies better, do so. Repeat making three at a time. Then add the next three wedges. Blade inserts can be any size just put the large end at the center. Press open. It is a good idea to pin with this block. The spikes are embellishments to the poppy.

 

Press to flatten out. Use starch if needed to keep from stretching. If your poppies still don’t lie flat, go in and adjust a seam or two.

 

Make a center for your poppy using your favorite method. Always do the center last so you can determine the best size you want the center to be. A 2” center works well. Can fussy cut the center if desired. For the poppy, add stuffing to the center and some embroidery floss. To finish the poppy, you can do a raw edge. Or use tear-away interfacing (thin), place poppy (any dresden) right side towards interfacing and sew ¼” all around the edges. Cut a slit in the interfacing, trim interfacing and clip curves if needed to help lie flat. Turn and flatten out, clipping carefully anywhere needed. Press. This gives you a turned edge.

 


These techniques can be used for any flower. Enjoy!


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